I was waiting in my car this morning in Waikiki at 5am. Across the street, I saw a security guard chasing someone. I was going to get out of my car and help the security guard but wanted to make sure nobody had a gun. I didn’t want to get shot, I wanted to surf.
This morning was wild! The waves were head high, powerful, and still pumping because of the hurricane. It was Ohashi-san’s first time to Hawaii so I wanted to make sure he had a memorable session. 
It was still dark but you can see how fast this guy surfs. 
Bowls feels like a totally different spot because of this rare swell direction. The rights were longer and better than the lefts!
Ohashi-san caught some amazing waves, then got on a flight back to Japan. I’m sure he slept very good. 
The sun came out for 5 minutes. 
Then the rain came down hard. It was storming!
You couldn’t even see Diamond Head. This is the last day of September and it’s probably the best September ever for surf. Non stop waves everyday and the good news is, there are 2 more south swells on the way. The best summer ever continues into October…
