Round 1: A very wild morning. From sunny sky and paradise yesterday, to dark, rainy, and gloomy today. Of course nobody would paddle out to Bowls this morning but we aren’t nobody. We are storm riders! When we first got out, you could barely see a thing. Rain and wind stinging the eye, the storm blackened out the sky, and it was pretty crazy.
The rain stopped and the surfing started. Takahata-san is a good surfer so he knows how to make the best out of nothing.
Only an experienced hunter can find waves on days like today. Only one in a hundred waves was ridable so you had to make the right choice.
And with these stormy conditions, the waves were very powerful. Great rail surfing.
Yesterday I surfed perfect barrels and never had to duck dive a wave. Today I had to duck dive over a hundred waves just to get back out. I think I spent more time underwater than above. I teach my students that you must be ready for everything. Today was that everything.
Takahata-san was probably the happiest surfer on the south shore today because he was probably the only surfer surfing on the south shore today. Haha.
It was only us out there that took the challenge. We went home very happy and healthy. Good waves and the best workout in the world!
