i had super fun surfing with Takagaki-san the past few days. day 1, we surfed 3 spots at diamond head in 3 hours. the waves were fun and we caught so many good ones. day 2, we drove all around the island. we pulled up at mokuleia early in the morning. it was super crowded everywhere but my little secret spot had nobody. we surfed 2 hours alone catching some big left handers. then to ehukai, then to romy’s shrimp, and then around the island. along the way, we met some of my friends. first was hayato maki at mokulea. i introduce them and after we leave, i ask Takagaki-san if he knows hayato. he said, “no.” then we meet teppei tajima at diamond head. i introduce them then after we leave, i ask him if he knows teppei. he said, “no.” then we meet alyssa wooten. i ask him if he knows who she is, he says, “no.” then we meet calvin maeda, i ask him if he know him, and his answer was “no.” i was laughing the whole way because these are all big names in the surfing scene in japan. all famous people in their own ways. he felt super bad for not knowing them so i told him, “hey takagaki-san, you don’t have to know who all those famous people are. as long as you know who kirby fukunaga is, your all good.” haha. we just laughed! Takagaki-san is a firefighter from okayama in japan. a super cool guy, a great surfer, and really kind!
remember i told you about one of the most awesome surfing days of my year out at bowls? this is the first of 50 photos i took. there were over 14 of my friends in the water that day and i finally downloaded it to my computer. stay tuned! and no, i didn’t photoshop the sky in the background blue. the skies have been this blue everyday since 2012 started. i don’t remember the last time the weather and waves have been this good everyday all year long. it’s total paradise here in hawaii!
