good chilly evening. say hello to these north winds because it’s going to be with us for the next 2 days. chilly nights and mornings.[:???:][:???:]
it’s been a while since i left town with no clouds in the sky. i knew it was going to be a nice day..
driving out to the north shore looking at the sunrise on one side of the island, and the full moon setting on the other is pretty cool. the moon was so big but doesn’t look it in this photo. i wonder why?
this was rocky point. fun waves but i surfed off the wall instead. it was solid 6′ when your riding the wave but paddling out it seemed 10′. yeah, try to kick out of a wave and look behind only to see a 10′ huge closeout set coming right at you. then another, and another, and another… just ask jun jo… and shit, on my last wave, i tried to go back out but ended up diving under 15 waves. big waves. that was it so i called it a day.
the winds were weird and so were the waves. not the best day to surf but i guess i had fun. north winds for the next 2 days so it’s time to try out my new speargun. i need to dive to clear out my mind. my mind that is still recovering from travel schedules and taxes. it should be all good by tomorrow evening… hope you have a great evening…
check out this photo of me paddling over an empty wave in indo last year. i’ll be on a boat in indo again next month and hopefully be in barrels like this. i can’t freakin wait!!!
