good evening. gosh, how’s the world series? and how’s daisuke’s pitching? it’s 6-0 now and i think they will win. well, i hope so. i have a dinner tonight so i will miss the rest of the game. and also miss uh warriors football game tonight too. gosh, my friend holli must be pretty important. if something nuts happens in these 2 games, i won’t be able to forgive her…. haha…
hey, surfed the same spot as yesterday. only today was much better. it was 3′ solid and going off. perfect rights and lefts again. and only a few guys out. i didn’t expect to surf anything overhead so i didn’t even check the waves before i paddled out. i took out my 5’10 minami bullet with no leash and when i got to the lineup, i couldn’t believe that the swell came in right before my eyes. got so many good waves so i’m really happy. heard more swells on the way. stoked… oh, the spot i surfed was “bowls”…. see you out there tomorrow….
i grew up in hawaii kai and right around the corner is the heaviest cliff dive in hawaii. this is called spitting caves. you time the wave so you jump when a wave breaks into the cave. then it spits at you. if you time it right, you will have the thrill of your life. if you time it wrong, you will have to be scraped off the reef with a shovel. and jumping is the easy part. climbing back off the rocks is another risk. so many people die here every year so i wouldn’t recommend it. we use to jump off here when we were kids and i will never do it again. i like my life too much…
and wanted to thank naoka for sending me this photo of japan today. typhoon 20 swell in shonan. wish i were there…. but then again, glad to be home…. catch a good one for me….. doomo desu….
