when i woke up yesterday morning, i thought to myself, “oh my gosh, the waves suck! where am i going to take Ishibashi-san surfing in the afternoon????” the winds were weird and onshore everywhere, it was raining, it was windy, and it was one of those days you stay at home. but no way, we have to go surfing! we jumped in my car and headed to the east side. the east side is really hard to forecast, hard to get it good, and hard to get a report. as we passed on of my favorite secret spots, i asked Ishibashi-san how good he can surf. he said 6 years experience, and can go fast down the line. that was good enough to take him out to a super far outer reef, strong currents, and very shallow. i was worried but after he caught his first wave and did a big top turn, i wasn’t worried about him anymore. he’s a great surfer with a lot of confidence. the spot is really hard and challenging but that was no problem. i want to thank Ishibashi-san for making our afternoon surf session so fun.
i was so worried about Ishibashi-san getting hurt, i got hurt myself. haha. on my last wave, i ate shit right on the inside reef and was getting dragged over it. i was protecting my head and face so my hand and foot got cut up. this is part of surfing and if you want to challenge yourself, you will get hurt sometimes. ouch! itai!
