this is my brother in law “Tony Moniz.” i think this photo was taken in the 1980’s. when i saw this, it brought back all the memories of tony taking me surfing on the biggest and craziest days on the north shore. i still can’t believe i survived all those 15-20′ closing out sunset, pipeline, laniakea, haleiwa, makaha, and outer reef sessions. we use to go everyday looking for the biggest and heaviest wave. i remember so many times being out 20′ sunset, 20′ pipe, 20′ haleiwa, 20′ makaha, and 20′ outer reefs. and the nights before, i use to go out with my high school boys and rock the town until morning. drink and party all night, then go surf first thing in the morning with tony. we’d load up his VW van and was ready to surf pretty much anything that day had to offer. at that time, i was skinny, weak, and could only hold my breath for 10 seconds. i swear i thought i was going to die every time i surfed with him. i must have seen death around a 100 times. i threw up so many times, i seen heaven so many times, and even started to like that feeling. if it wasn’t for tony, i’d still be surfing knee/waist diamond head everyday. he pulled me out of that scene and showed me a totally new world. a world i love! thanks bro!
