good morning. 6:15am and the waves aren’t looking too good. the north and south buoys came up a little but the waves still look small. i see some chest high sets at pipe, probably pupukea is bigger. just watch your car because i heard a lot of surfers have been getting ripped off. when ever i drive around the north shore, i always picture myself catching somebody breaking into cars. that’s why i have a baseball bat in my car. you steal? i’ll break your hands with my bat. didn’t i tell you i’m a part-time undercover police officer? haha… back to the waves. a new south swell supposed to be filling in today but it’s still knee/waist high right now. really bad weather again on the way. ummm… where should i surf???? that’s a tough call today. i hope you don’t have to make these kind of tough decisions like me everyday. haha.. i was just telling a friend yesterday “THE OCEAN DICTATES MY DAY”. but today, i’m lost…. have a good one…
**wanted to thank gordinho for sending me these photos from off the wall 2 days ago. what a beautiful day it was!!!!
i was riding a 6’2 X 18 1/4 X 2 1/4 mike woo squash tail. G-5 fcs fins. it felt good in the barrel….
and felt good on the lip. when i first saw this photo, i thought it was somebody else. haha… i didn’t know i still could do turns like this. thanks gordinho for making me look good. this one’s a keeper….
and after i seen this photo i didn’t realize how ugly i was.. haha… wanted to say thanks to all my sponsors out there….
and last, wanted to thank kazuya-san and okumura-san for a fun session yesterday. we have a lot in common. isoko bar in osaka, and tssc surfboards….. tell koji-san i said hello and hope to visit isoko bar this april. talk stories and sip on jack/cokes… enjoy the rest of your stay in hawaii. mahalo….
