hey, did you hear about the underwater volcano eruption in tonga today? this is the craziest photo ever. i wonder if you could have surfed the swell???? and lucky no tidal waves…
i was shooting the other day and dennis pang pulled up to ehukai early in the morning. dennis shaped my first ever north shore gun. it was a 6’10 town and country surfboard i used in the winter of 1987. i remember paddling out on huge 15′ days at sunset with tony moniz. and when ever he would yell “GO”, i went. sometime i made the wave, but most of the time my board was too small and i ate shit. i still can’t believe i survived all those years surfing with tony on the biggest days on the north shore. from dawn to dusk. it feels good to be alive…
oh, this girl i was asking about the other day is missy valdez. she is a 19 year old UH student from wahiawa. this chick rips!! thanks kaz sano for the info…
i took this photo of myself at diamond head yesterday. i just wanted to have a photo of me with diamond head lighthouse in the background. gosh, it was a beautiful day!!! today was totally the opposite. the weather was as ugly as it could be….
and last, thank you jeannie chesser for sending me this photo of a hawaiian style barbecue…. isn’t that a foodland shopping cart? great idea…
*hey, right before dark, i seen a shoulder high set at bowls. the swell is here!! south shore tomorrow!!!
