good evening. wanna know where the best spot on the island was today? diamond head cliffs. i passed by there at 9:30am and there were only 2 surfers out in the whole ocean. isn’t today sunday? where is everybody? shoulder high cliffs breaking all the way through…. score!!
sunday is a relax day for people in hawaii, including me. if i go to the beach, i go to private beaches where there aren’t too many people around. today, it was perfect. and i bet a lot of you don’t know where this is….
traveling with a speargun in your bag is kind of sketchy. i’ve gotten stopped all the time by customs agents, and even had my gun taken away once. i hear stories of free divers traveling to various countries and getting their guns confiscated. i’m going on a boat for 11 days and if i don’t have my speargun, there will be no fresh sashimi for the evening bintang sessions. and that would suck. so today, i made my speargun look not like a speargun. it’s in pieces and i’ll stick a piece in my friends bags. great idea yeah?
then once i get there, all i need is that little swiss army knife to put it all back together….
**and last, when i was in high school, it was my dream to break dance. why? because it looked cool and all the good dancers scored the chicks. i tried but couldn’t. that’s why i surf. haha… if i could have danced as good as this guy in this video, i’d quit surfing…. not….
