Warning: Ocean Rule #1

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good morning. 6:15am and the waves are looking tiny. where’s that north swell? nothing yet and the buoys aren’t showing anything yet so don’t expect it to come up today. maybe tomorrow. town is small but i bet diamond head is fun. i have so many things to do today so i better leave. surf, shoot, and meetings. busy but loving it. have a nice day!!!

it’s good to see signs like this around the island. just a reminder on ocean safety….

NEVER TURN YOUR BACK TO THE OCEAN. this was the first thing i learned about the ocean. i always tell kids that this is the most important rule that you should always follow. i see it all the time, tourists standing on the waters edge taking a photo with their backs turned to the ocean. then all of a sudden, a wave comes and sweeps them out to sea. i never turn my back to the ocean and anybody who goes near the sea shouldn’t too…. this is a great sign….

and here’s another great sign i seen the other day near velzyland. KEEP THE BEACH CLEAN. it’s pretty simple. understand it or don’t go to the beach. stay home instead….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide