when i first met Chiaki-san, i was amazed on how energetic she was. she just had this inner energy that was just glowing. she told me that she surfed only twice before. both times in waikiki when somebody pushed her into waves. this time, she wanted to surf all by herself. so the first thing it told her was, “ok, carry your own board.” haha. i was just joking but if you want to surf by yourself, you should learn how to do everything by yourself. i would have loved to carry her board for her, but that wouldn’t do her any good right?
when ever i teach somebody surfing, i always try to be as close as possible. the main reason for that is safety. have you ever had a 10′ hard longboard hit you in the head before? well, it hurts. surfing is a lot more dangerous than people think, but if you take your time and be careful, you can prevent accidents from happening. i’ve seen all kinds of surfing accidents and a lot of people getting hurt. i just don’t want any of them to be my friends. that’s why i try stay close as possible.
i see a perfect wave coming. i tell Chiaki-san “PADDLE!” she paddles into the perfect chest high wave, stands up, and has the ride of her life! by the end of the day, this girl was surfing by herself. i was so stoked to see her enjoying surfing so much. it was a great day for me.
Hey Chiaki-san,
I had so much fun surfing with you.
Thanks for making me laugh all day!
Remember to keep looking forward and keeping your knees bent.
Keep on surfing and hope you enjoyed your Hawaiian vacation!
Aloha
