FUN IN THE SUN!

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had a super fun day in the sun. i woke up at 4:30 and my day was ON! picked up the gang and headed over to the west side to meet up with uncle walter. did a cruise up and down the coast. just being on a boat makes me happy. sitting in the fresh air, and not knowing what the heck you will come across. everything is unpredictable in the ocean and today was just another of those days. it was pretty cold but luckily we’re using the best wetsuits in the world. hey elias, how’s my wetsuit? pretty warm yeah? you better get yourself one because that one is mine. haha.
on the far drive back to town, i heard snoring in the car. than as soon as we got to town, i was thinking about going home to take my nap. then i heard “let’s go surfing!!!” eeh? oh my gosh!

right as i jumped into the water, i felt revived again! it’s amazing how the ocean can wake my tired self up so fast! and after getting the reports from the north shore on the rain and windy weather, i was stoked that my house is 15 minutes from this beach. a beach with clean water, sunny skies, and waves for everyone! we had it almost to ourselves! here is inaida-san going over a nice chest high set. Hati hati!!!!
it’s been a while since i used my camera and i had a fun time shooting photos today. maybe i’ll start shooting everyday again?

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide