i had fun yesterday surfing with all my friends. to surf with over 10 of my friends from japan yesterday in town was super exciting. i took some video and photos but after surfing 2 rounds for over 5 hours yesterday, i had no energy to put together a video. maybe i’ll try again tonight? but for now, check out some photos. here is ryota getting ready for a morning surf session in the bright sunny blue sky town!
where ever you surf in the world, you have to respect the local surfers. and even though i live in hawaii and surf almost every spot on the island, i respect each and every local in the water. some like you, some don’t. as for bowls, everybody is pretty much welcomed, but if you get stupid, you will get hurt. if you disrespect, you will get disrespected. like everywhere in the world: “respect the locals.” reid is a local. he’s surfs out there more than anybody i know. if he likes you, he will give you waves. if he doesn’t, you should stay away and go right instead of left.
i don’t know any women surfer in the world who loves to surf more than Maki-san. every morning she wakes up, she’s going straight to the beach. from south to west to east to north, you will see Maki-san surfing this whole island every day of the year.
