good morning. 6am and welcome to a one day north swell. yup, the buoy came up last night but is already coming down. the good news is the swell arrived right on time for the start of the womens pipeline pro. the bad news is that it’s only 2-4′ and out of the north. not a good direction for pipe. i’m surprised because the buoy got pretty big last night so i thought the waves will be at least 6′. well, i guess it’s better than nothing. it’s april tomorrow so we’re lucky to even be getting waves on the north shore. town’s waist high and really clean. i have millions of things to do today so i better get going. one is to surf….. have a nice day!!
**ok, i’ve been lost since i was a kid. i was told not to use the word “deaf” so i didn’t. well, until now. after meeting jared and getting a lot of emails from deaf surfers, now i know that deaf is a better word than what i’ve been using all this time, which was “hearing impaired”. kyoko-san sent me an email saying that impaired or disability is a negative word. yes it is and i’m sorry for using it all these years. and i’m sorry if i offended anyone out there. by the way, there is the WORLD DEAF SURF COMPETITION on july 9-12 right here at queen’s beach, waikiki. jared’s put a lot of time and effort into this contest so i hope i’m here during that time. until then, just wanted to say thank you to everybody out there that’s sent me such kind emails about this topic. it changed my way of thinking big time…
**and check out what i just learned…
I…….
LOVE…..
YOU….
I LOVE YOU[:?????????:]
