i had a great time surfing yesterday with Oyama-san. Oyama-san is from sendai and only surfed there once since the tsunami devastated every beach near his home. it was his first time surfing in hawaii so i wanted to take him to the best spot with the most aloha. the south swell came up so it was off to bowls. he caught some really good waves and i was so happy to see him smiling. the locals out there gave him the best waves and i was super happy to see the power of the aloha in the water. this is what surfing is supposed to be. thanks to all the locals for sharing. i’m proud to say i’m a south shore surfer from hawaii! and hey Oyama-san, you surf good!
Oyama-san follows go-naminori so he knows more than me. he even knew who kairi noro was. kairi actually took this photo of us. thanks little wild one! after i drove home, i was thinking to myself, “gosh, i feel a connection with Oyama-san. I’ve seen him before somewhere but couldn’t put the puzzle together.”
OMG!!!! when i was at the sendai festival for kids during Mission 4, i remember Oyama-san coming up to me and giving me snacks for our team. he was super sincere, super kind, and did it from his heart. i remember him so well but couldn’t remember his name then. but now, i will never forget this kind mans name, Oyama-san. i hope he and his lovely family have a safe trip back to sendai. keep on surfing and keep on smiling! We Are One!
