having a good halloweeen? seen some awesome costumes today. tonight’s going to be nuts…. i took a drive out to the north shore this morning and gosh, it seemed so dam far. i’m still not use to it. and not use to my gas going down so fast. and not use to my car getting so dam dirty. oh well, gotta work… right when i left my house there was this huge rainbow. this rainbow followed me out to the north shore. it was pretty cool…..
pulled up to ehukai beach park. it was packed!!! 3 guys out…. haha. the waves looked super fun but i wanted to check around before paddling out. pulled up to v-land and it was super funner. paddled out and surfed with 4 other guys all morning. felt good to get in a north shore session and can’t wait till next time. and i figured out something today. this morning, wade tokoro sent me a video of mick fanning surfing in brazil on his board. i watched it and got all amped out. on my first wave, i thought i was mick fanning. then i pearled and ate shit. slapped myself in the head and told myself that i’m not mick fanning. then i had a great session just being myself….
check out this yellow spot travelly i shot in bali. i can’t wait to dive again. want to thank kathy nakamoto for taking this photo. anyway, north, west, east, and south swells coming up this weekend. waves all over the island. everybody go surf. have a safe halloween night and see you in the water. or in a club… haha….
