been surfing with Tai-san recently. she want’s to get better at surfing so i went into my serious mode and turned my lesson into a military boot camp. people think i’m strict, people think i’m pushy, people think i’m loud. but when somebody wants to get better in surfing, i do what ever i have to do to make that happen. i just don’t want to waste anybody’s time, or my time. i’m here to take your level up to a place you never dreamed of. i’ve always wanted to get good at surfing and got pushed by so many people. now, i’m getting the best barrels of my life and if it wasn’t for my coaches, friends, and family, i’d probably be riding a 12′ soft top board in waikiki. nothing wrong with that, but traveling around the world getting barreled at world class surf spots is the way to go. Chikara-san is in the middle of this photo. he never stood up before and yesterday, it happened. to see people so stoked on surfing makes me stoked. even after surfing my whole life, i’m still trying to get better. and if you still want to push me to do better, please do! and to Tai-san and Chikara-san, our military style boot camp will continue and you will get better and better by every wave you catch. just paddle hard, bend your knees, look up, and smile! keep on surfing!
then i came in and put my longboard down. i went back to take a shower and i seen a man run over my board with his car. OMG! his tire cracked my fin box and my good board is now not so good. everybody in the parking lot seen and heard it. i was super bummed, but i guess my board getting run over is better than me getting run over. 10 years ago, i would have threw a big rock through that guys window. it was funny because some of the local guys were more mad than i was. haha. now, i just take a deep breath, and calm myself down. he was a chinese man that didn’t speak english so his wife came on the phone and told me “why you leave your board on the road?” the guy even laughed at me at one point but i just let it go. like i said, 10 years ago, i would have lost my mind and went crazy on him. but now. no way. not worth it. deep breath, turn, and walk away.
we ended up calling the police and letting them take care of it. hopefully his insurance will cover it. if so, great. if not, cannot be helped. i’m just glad nobody got hurt, and i’m just glad i’m not in jail. i like my freedom and plan to keep it that way. another incident i walked away from. free diving and yoga mellowed me out. once you can take a deep breath and clear your mind, nothing in the world can bring you down. NAMASTE!
