had a great time with Takeda-san and Michiko-san yesterday. it was their first time surfing the north shore so i was stoked to be a part of their experience. as i passed by laniakea and seen the west angle of the new swell, i knew that velzyland was going to be good. and while the 100 surfer cars parked at laniakea and chuns, i had a feeling that it was going to be uncrowded once you passed waimea bay. we pulled up to velzyland and didn’t even check the waves because i knew it was going to be good. but once we got out, i was wrong! it wasn’t good, it was GREAT! i couldn’t even count how many barrels i got. it felt so good to be in another world! i haven’t surfed velzyland that good all winter long. and i was stoked to see Takeda-san and Michiko-san enjoying and experiencing the north shore of hawaii! then we surfed again in the afternoon at bowls and it was just too easy. haha.
on my first few boat trips, i use to sleep and sleep because it felt so good. now days, i’m hardly sleeping at all. i’m either surfing, shooting, editing, or drinking. no time for sleep like this anymore for me. my next boat trip is in the mentawai’s this coming may. i can’t wait to get big barrels and spear big fish and eat sashimi and explore and explore! by the way, i took this photo 2 years ago on our timor boat trip in indonesia. gosh, every body looks so peaceful!
after a good dinner, we went to get a few good drinks. when i’m with my old school friends, nothing in the world bothers me. i’m back to my normal loud self enjoying every minute of their company. it actually sucks when it’s time to go home.
