Girls Day, VIP Surfing, and Dead Battery.

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yesterday was another great day. i woke up at 4am, got my boat ready, and spent the whole entire day in the ocean. i’ve been putting off taking my friends around so it was a perfect day to take the girls out to the sea. i call yesterday morning, “Girls Day.”

yuko-chan, maki-san, and maki-chan were making me laugh the whole time. i enjoy hanging out with the girls because it reminds me of my high school days when i use to hang out with our bunch of girl friends. the stories are different, the talking is different, the laughing is different, and everything is different. for these 3 girls, we all surf every day so today was a great day to take the day off from surfing and explore deeper than that. i had a great time! check them out posing with the 2 best fish for sashimi!

i took them to my secret dive spots, and to my secret island. i hope they don’t tell anyone. hey maki-san, i’m stoked you got to eat our special catch. remember that’s our secret. hey maki-chan, good time going down 15′, holding your breath for 45 seconds, and spearing a fish. your looking a lot more comfortable underwater. hey yuko-chan, i’m glad you didn’t get seasick. and i’m glad you didn’t throw up in my boat. and to all you girls, thanks for the wonderful lunch buffet. gosh, you guys sure eat a lot. haha.
well, this was only part 1 of 2 yesterday.

part 2 was going surfing! i have special VIP friends living in a VIP condo so i wanted to give VIP service for a change. i told inaida-san and yuki-san that i will be there at 2pm. i pulled up with my boat, we loaded the boards, and went surfing! we always have good surf sessions but yesterday was better than good. it was great!

it as just too easy pulling up to bowls, catching a few waves, jumping back in the boat, and going back home. i think we should do this more often. hey inaida-san, your surfing is getting so good! strong paddling, good takeoff, and good turning. keep on surfing! hey yuki-san, i think your ready for bigger waves. it’s fun watching you enjoy surfing, falling, and everything in the ocean. keep on smiling!
after a long day, i pull my boat back to the harbor, jump in my car to back up the trailer, and guess what? DEAD BATTERY! OMG!!! on a normal day, i would be really bummed out. but yesterday, nothing could bring me down. i just had too much fun with such cool people. surfing and diving is my life, and yesterday i was loving my life!
maki-san told me yesterday “hey, you got a good life.” i just laughed it off. then as i was driving home, i realized the reason why i have a good life. i have a good life because i’m surrounded by good people. all my friends are gold!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide