Murakami-san came to hawaii 10 years ago on his honeymoon. he surfed waikiki every day for a week and ended up not even catching one single wave. he tried but nobody would give him a wave and a local surfer even yelled at him for getting in the way. it was his worst surfing experience ever. then after he went back to japan, Murakami-san told himself that he would never come to hawaii ever again. so what brought him back to hawaii yesterday after 10 years? i think revenge. yeah, i know the feeling leaving a place with a bad taste and the only way to fix that is to go back and try again. when i picked up Murakami-san yesterday from his hotel, he told me “all i want to do is to catch ONE wave.” he told me his story and i thought to myself “what a poor guy.” so i told him, “ok, lets go surf the best spot on the island today, which happened to be Bowls. as we paddled out, i told him that if i say “GO”, go! he caught his first wave and that smile on his face was priceless. he ended up catching so many good waves in the 2.5 hour session and when we came in, he said he loved hawaii! i was so happy to hear that!
Hey Murakami-san,
I had a lot of fun surfing with you! I’m glad you got to experience Hawaii the right way.
I’m sorry that a local surfer yelled at you 10 years ago. That guy has no Aloha!
I hope you get even better waves today when we go surfing again.
Please erase the bad experience that you had 10 years ago.
And please enjoy this time as it is your Honeymoon again.
You must have been really frustrated back then and I feel sorry for your wife. haha.
Enjoy the rest of your stay in Hawaii and have a safe trip back to Osaka!
Hope to see you again.
Aloha!
every single person i take surfing, i tell them not to step on the reef. one reason is because if you step on the fragile reef, you will kill it. and for those of you who don’t know, it takes more than 10 years for dead reef to grow back. another reason is because of the Uni, or Wana. yeah, if you step on that black thing on the left, you will scream, and you will have the black poky stuff in your foot for a while. i took this photo the other day when i was sitting on my board. imagine taking a big step on that Uni? itai!!!!
last, i’m sunburned, i’m black as can be, but i’m loving my job! and that’s all that matters!
