good morning. Happy May Day!!! what a freakin beautiful day it is here in hawaii. the skies are as blue as can be. gosh, this is real paradise. it’s 7am and i couldn’t get up. and i’m glad i didn’t because i’m looking at bowls right now and there are 40 surfers out. the waves are chest/shoulder high and fun but still not fun enough or me. i’m spoiled… anyway, got lots of things to do today so i better get going. i was downloading some of the 11,000 photos from the past month and all i have to say is “OH MY GOSH!!”. stay tuned. hope you have a nice day!!!
if you surf, you will get hurt eventually. and if you surf the mentawai’s, you will get hurt for sure. check out my new mentawai islands tattoo….
i cut my foot at HT’s on the 4th day. this one hurt, and still hurts. especially since it got infected while i was in malaysia. i can barely walk, but i can surf and dive anytime.. haha… oh wait!!! i better not surf bowls today. dirty water won’t help it heal….
and if you surf, you will break boards. after day 5 of the 11 day trip, 2 out of my 3 boards were done. i only had one left so i made sure i came out of every barrel i pulled into. i rode my matchi shaped 6’0 for the biggest days of the rest of the trip and it handled fine. in fact, it’s still in the mentawai’s waiting for me to go back and get it. hope that will be sometime soon….
**oh, i just seen a solid 3′ set at bowls. might have to go get wet…. maybe big rights mid morning. it might be like the mentawai’s yeah? not…. haha…
