Endure…

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good morning. wow, i’ve been getting some good sleep. it’s 8am and i’d better get going. have a little trip tomorrow that i’m looking forward too. got to get ready for it. oh, the waves are looking fun. chest high sets still left over at bowls. 9 guys out. and north shore has a little swell going. see 4 guys out at pipe. bigger north/west swell on monday with excellent conditions. waves for everyone!!! have a nice day….

this was my bed on the boat for 11 nights. it was pretty dam comfortable…

next to my pillow was a book i bought from an used book store in hawaii. it’s called “ENDURE” and is about a 17 year old japanese/american girl that wrote her story about the internment camp during world war 2. did you know that over 120,000 first and second generation japanese americans had to go to an internment camp after the war started? yeah, the US military rounded them up so they had to sell everything they had and go to these camps, or should i say, PRISON. i’ve heard a lot about the camps but after reading this book, i got a little pissed off at our government for doing that. it’s amazing how much american japanese had to ENDURE. anyway, after reading this book, my feelings still are the same about the war. nobody won, we all lost…
**get this, one quiet night while everybody was sleeping, somebody yelled at the top of their voice “STOP, STOP, STOP” in the middle of the night. and everybody woke up except for me. that was me dreaming… haha… sorry guys….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide