good morning. wow, what a surprise. pipeline is going off. it’s looking 3-5′ and pretty dam good. clean conditions with 20 guys out. town is small. knee/waist high at bowls with 12 surfers. it’s another beautiful sunny day in paradise. no wind now so get it before the onshore winds come. have a nice day!!!
this was round 2. i put a belt kui around my waist to carry the fish i catch. it’s pretty hard work and can get dangerous, especially when you have sharks coming around to see what’s for dinner. i seen 2 sharks yesterday that came in pretty dam close. imagine diving to the bottom waiting for fish, then as you start coming back up, you look behind you and there is a shark staring you in the face? it’s kind of freaky and a good way to get my heart pumping….
this is called a “munu” or “joe lewis”. put it in a steamer and you got yourself a gourmet meal. i want to thank kyle, cathy, and james for the awesome day of diving… let’s do it again!!
***ok, everybody’s been asking me about the waves at HT’s or Lances Rights. we absolutely scored the best of the best. a lot of the guys out were saying that it doesn’t get better than what we got it. 4-6′ and perfect peeling rights. at times, there were only 1 or 2 guys out. i shot this video clip from inside the boat while i was eating lunch. you can see how good the waves were and you can also see zuccho watching it while image surfing. we got so many barrels and there were also so many waves that nobody was on. i counted 4 empty waves in a row. it could have been you. watch this clip and dream. and remember, dreams do come true…..
and for the guys that couldn’t make it on this trip. i’m so sorry…. and i’ll say it again. i’m so sorry…. you just missed your chance at riding the best waves of your life…. but don’t get down because i’m already planning a trip for next year. if you miss that one, i’m not going to say “i’m so sorry,” i’m going to say “you blew it”…. again…
**watch these waves barrel on by…. more clips on the way….
**last, the okinawa video i just posted on youtube got some ratings:
#5 – Most Viewed (Today) – Travel & Events – Japan
thanks everybody….
