good evening. i checked everywhere in town today but the waves looked onshore and junky so i went to work out at the 24 hour fitness in waikiki. figure, can check the waves while working out. right when i walked in, i seen the inside of queen’s going off. there were long double up rights with not too many people out. i figure i’d surf after i train. so between weight sets, i was calling everybody telling them queens looked good. after 30min of working out, i almost tweaked my neck because i was watching the waves out the window while lifting. then i thought to myself that 24 means 24 hours. yeah, the gym is open 24 hours a day so i can always work out later. i grabbed my board from my car and surfed queen’s. gosh, the waves were sooooo gooood…. perfect double ups in the inside with only a few guys out. it was like a wave machine. 100 waves per hour. surfed 2 hours but felt like 4. so much paddling, so much surfing, and so much fun… that was the spot today for sure…. great workout in the water. no need gym…. dirty water everywhere else. save gas, surf town…. haha…..
**and get this, snow in hawaii. moana kea and moana loa. get your snowboards ready….
so many divers go around the world in search for the sunfish or “mola mola”. these huge fish average 1000kg and are the heaviest bone fish in the world. they are usually found it depths of 360m but sometimes come to the shallows. i was one lucky ass to be able to see one of these amazing fish in bali last month. it was my first dive off the boat in nusa penedia. i jumped in and it was right there lying on the bottom around 30′ deep. it was freaking huge!!! i almost speared the dam thing. good thing i came up and asked the boat man if i could spear it. he told me no and said we were lucky to even see one. i see the moonfish or “opah” in fishmarkets in hawaii and it looks so good to eat. so when you dive in other countries, watch what you spear because it might be a rare fish like the “mola mola”. and get this one, i was diving in north sumatra a while ago with a local indonesian when we saw a turtle. i was swimming around with it and the guy told me to spear it. there was no way… and if he speared it, i would have freaked out. see, indonesians love to eat turtles. you can find them on sticks being barbecued on the streets of indo. and it taste pretty dam good. oh, i shouldn’t have said that. sorry. well, just wanted to share a couple indo diving stories….
it’s autumn in japan. this is chuzenji lake in okunikko prefecture, japan. how beautiful is this? sick…. i found a website on msnbc that has the pictures of the week. gosh, this is a picture of the year. really makes me want to go there….
and who the heck said that laybacks are out? don’t tell this to carlos burle. this is tahiti a few days ago. really makes me not want to go there….
and check out this video my friend derek sent me. he’s been racing around the streets of honolulu with his baby blue VW dune buggy. it’s the sixth dune buggy pulling the wheelie…. Whooooopp… i like sample….