good evening. i pulled up to bowls this morning super excited to surf. it was packed but i didn’t care. i paddled out and had a great session. so great that i almost surfed for 3 hours. the waves were chest high and really clean. the water finally warmed up and it felt good to be back surfing in hawaii. i had so much fun that i can’t wait to surf again. i was supposed to go on a short 2 day trip today but it got cancelled. everything happens for a reason right? right… i’m about caught up with my emails and my trips for the rest of the year are pretty much planned. it’s a job somebody has to do. and that somebody is me… haha… have a nice evening…
**ok, here is a video clip i’ve been holding out on for over a year. why? because i kind of don’t like showing secret spots. this one is in the philippines and the reason why i’m showing it now is because i heard the river has poison chemicals and stuff coming out of it. a few surfers got really sick and the mercury levels that were collected were 10 x the standards. so if you want to grow another ear, or lose all your hair, go ahead…. check out this video of “poison river mouth in the philippines”…
here is a much cleaner reef break somewhere in the philippines. only about 10 people on this planet know where it is and i’m one of them. this spot will remain a secret and i can’t wait to go back there someday…
