From Dusk till Dawn

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good evening. wow, what a long day. i woke up at 4:45am, watched the
full moon go down to the west, then seen the sun come up at the same
time from the east. they don’t call japan “The Land of the Rising Sun”
for nothing. i pulled up to Ikumi Beach and this was the first thing i
saw. Shun, Kaito, and Hinako checking the waves. if i didn’t have my
camera and take this photo, i would have kicked myself in the butt.
the TSSC contest was amazing. great people, great staff, and great
competitors. everything was great, except for the freezing coldness in
the morning. 150 competitors all came down to 8 winners in 8
divisions. i want to congratulate everybody that entered the contest.
it was nice to see you all again and i’m glad to have seen so many
smiles today. i have 20 minutes before the party so i’d like to take a
shower and freshen up because i’m super tired. i was on the beach all
day long!
i took 555 photos so expect a gallery and video sometime soon. i can’t
believe i go back to hawaii in 8 days because i have to many things to
do in between. i better move fast, enjoy every moment because this trip
is going by way too fast. i still have so many things i want to eat, so
many things i want to do, so many people i want to meet, and so many
hours i want to sleep. aside from being jetlagged, i have California
shaper Chris Kaysen snoring like a bear next to me for the past 2
nights. my earplugs aren’t enough and i can even feel the vibration.
haha. but you know what? i have a warm place to sleep so i’m not
complaining. i’m so fortunate to have so many families around japan and
this is one. i love shikoku and i’m bummed i have to leave already.
this place is magical! well, better get going. have a great evening
and i want to thank again everybody who came to the TSSC contest today.
mahalo and kanpai!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide