good evening. what another beautiful surfing day it was here in hawaii. i surfed bowls this morning and it was really fun. chest high sets and off shore winds. not too many people were out so it was pretty mellow. a couple of my friends were saying “go kirby” when the sets came. but i said “no thank you”. haha… i told them that i was out in the water only to hang out and get wet. i just want to paddle around in the inside and catch small ones. another surf trip is coming up soon so i want to be surf hungry again. and i’m far from that right now…. so to all my friends out there, if you see a set, GO!! i’ll just wait for the next one….
for all of those who come to hawaii. here’s a tip. if you don’t have a ride from the airport to your hotel in waikiki, take the airport shuttle. as soon as you come out of customs, look for these 2 girls and follow them. the shuttle bus is right behind them. see it? walk there and get dropped off right to your hotel for $9. pretty cheap….
$9 one way or $25 round trip. next time i come back to hawaii and nobody can pick me up, i’m catching the shuttle bus to waikiki….. can’t beat that price….
yesterday i got a new camera phone. i was trying to play around with it before i surfed bowls in the evening. i was kind of bummed that the photos were all blurry… shit, i forgot to take off the plastic seal that protects the camera… stupid yeah…
i’ve been surfing with tokura-san in town. it’s funny how we surfed 6′ perfect mentawai waves 3 weeks ago and surfing chest high ala moana bowls today. to us, surfing is surfing and where ever we are, we still know how to have fun…. enjoy surfing and live a happy life!!!!
