Rebirth, Ofunato, and Lost Barrel

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photo 1
remember my longboard that got ran over?
photo 3
it’s alive! Daisuke fixed it for me perfectly! can’t wait to ride it again! thanks Daisuke for the excellent repair job!
Screen shot 2012-04-17 at 5.05.48 PM
check out this photo i got off the news. we drove through Ofunato on Mission 1. it looked like the top photo. we went back on M2 and still looked the same. haven’t been back since but it’s great to see how it’s looking now. everything is cleared and now it’s time to rebuild! i was looking at a lot of before and after photos and i have to say that things are getting better and better. still far away from normal, but moving forward! makes me happy! anyway, took thousands of photos in tohoku that i didn’t post yet and will be shortly. i just looked back at some and it still hurts.
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matchi found this photo of me on japanese photographer Yoshiro Nakayama’s webpage. i don’t even remember when this was???? i’m guessing in shikoku at some perfect river mouth during a typhoon? i think i got barreled more in shikoku than anywhere else in the world. so many that i can’t remember. can’t wait for this years typhoon season! thanks matchi for finding this photo, and thank Yoshi for shooting this sick fisheye barrel shot. i feel like i just got barreled again.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide