BROKE DA MOUTH….

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good morning. 5:45am and the waves are clean and fun around the island. 12 surfers are already out at bowls. laniakea looking pretty fun too. chest high and maybe even a head high set. diamond head must be pretty dam good too. for me, kaisers is the call. a bigger south swell arriving tomorrow afternoon so there should be waves all week long. i have so many things to do so i’ll be starting my days from 5am now on. longer days and shorter nights. oh well, gotta go surf first…. have a nice day!!!

when it’s time to dive, i’m ready. call me, and i’ll go. most of my dive friends know that by now…

here’s what i think. if you go dive and catch fish, learn how to clean it, and cook it. most of the divers i know can all cook really good. kyle nakamoto can dive, cook, and clean. the garlic/butter pan fried fish for breakfast in molokai was amazing. and the butter/shoyu/chili pepper grilled opihi’s we barbecued the night before was even better. we say in hawaii “BROKE DA MOUTH”. or in japanese “MECHAKUCHA UMAI”. or in hawaiian “ono brah”. i wish you were there to try it….

and last, seeing dolphins in places like sea life park and sea world makes me sad. but seeing dolphins in the open ocean makes me happy. if you seen how they act in both environments, you will understand what i’m talking about…. i can count over 30 happy dolphins in this photo. how about you?

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide