salamat pagi from nias

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salamat pagi from nias, sumatra. after 3 days, i finally got here. jet lagged? wait. what do you call it when you feel like surfing at 9pm at night, and feel like drinking a beer at 4am in the morning? haha.. yeah, i got to jakarta airport at 9pm looking for the other guys. i found them and everybody looked tired. me? i was ready for anything. but being stuck at the airport in a hotel, there’s not much going on. so i drank 5 bintangs, got a foot massage, and tried to sleep at 1am watching the news. 3am, my eyes opened and that was the start of my day. i went to the breakfast buffet at 4am and ate like i haven’t eaten in 3 days. then i wanted to drink a beer. but at 4am? i passed.. we jumped on a flight at 6am, landed in padang at 8am, bought 2 bottles of jack, and boarded the sanssouci2. 20 hours later, i’m pulling up to nias right now. going to wax my board, put on my leash, and surf. then grab my camera to shoot a few, then spear some fish. i got internet connection here via a friends cell phone but i don’t know if any photos will load. but will try. oh, i can’t check my go-naminori email for the entire trip so please send email to my hotmail. thanks and be back soon. first, going to find some barrels at one of the most famous point rights in the world. the trip has officially begun…

this is timmy. timmy is from nias and is the 2nd captain to the sanssouci2. i’m so stoked he fixed my board while i was gone. i rode it just now and it worked so good. by the way, i just go out of the water at nias. got barreled on my 2nd wave. eating lunch now and will go diving for tonight’s sashimi for sunset time. i think my barrel fixed my jetlag. i feel 100%now. well, gotta get going. going 10 hours up north tonight. be back soon….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide