i picked up warren this morning from his hotel then headed over to bowls. seen the boys getting ready to go out for a surf. this is not an everyday thing, just a once in 10 years or so bumping into these guys all at once. i use to surf everyday, and train everyday with Sunny Garcia and John Shimooka. we use to wake up early, run the hills, swim in the pool, do pushups until we threw up, then went straight into the weight room. somehow, we use to have enough power left to go surfing. it was in these two guys prime when we did this so their surfing level pushed mine up a lot. we use to compete in everything we did from surfing, running, swimming, tennis, bowling, and even drinking. i could write a book on how crazy we use to get and how the ocean brought us all back to reality. paddling out with these hawaiians use to be really funny because i use to look on the faces of the locals out at the spot, and see their facial expression. a facial expression saying “oh my gosh, now i won’t be able to catch a single wave anymore, i should just paddle in.” haha. that was the exact same facial expression i seen on everybody’s face when we got to the lineup at bowls. these guys catch everything and if you don’t know them, forget surfing.
John Shimooka on the left, Kekoa Cazimero next, then Sunny Garcia, then Warren on the right. warren if from australia but lives in wakayama. he surfs some of the heaviest local spots in japan. today, he was with the heaviest locals in the world. after we surfed, i told warren, “hey, everybody is welcomed to hawaii, anybody can surf where ever they want. but just because you can surf with the locals, that doesn’t mean you will catch waves.” haha. and i meant that. hawaii is the most welcoming place in the world, but at the same time, has the most talented surfers at every single spot on the island. anyway, i had a great time talking story with the boys out in the lineup today. it’s always good to see old friends and catch up on things. i can see ourselves doing this till we’re 80 years old. us grandpa’s ruling the spots! haha.
and omg. what is this? this is ice packed bras that are coming out in japan this summer for the heat. it’s to cool down the ladies. haha. where can i get some ice packed underwear?
