good evening. gosh, what a long ass day. i went early morning to the north shore because when i checked it, it looked good. but when i got there, it got weird and junky, and crowded. no surf, headed back to town. waste gas. speaking of gas, it went up 20 cents/gallon since last week. crazy!! on the way back to town, my brother them were on the way for a dive. i was on it. took the likelike and headed to kaneohe. the water was still a little dirty and the current was kind of strong so it wasn’t a good day to dive. we went for a deep dive first looking for big fish. nobody home. so we headed to this reef to poke some reef fish…. gosh, i felt good today. dove 60′ no problem. all that training in okinawa and bali payed off. especially heading into big wave season…
speaking of big waves, check out puerto escondido that last big south swell. nuts…. i still get nightmares about that place…
and this was chile on that same last swell. so here it is, tahiti 15′, mexico 12′, chile 20′, hawaii 4′. 4′? yeah. that sucks right? i always tell my friends that hawaii is the last place to be if you want to surf real south swells…. and not to mention, it wasn’t only 4′ here, it was onshore too…..
town 7am, north shore 8am, on my boat in the middle of the ocean on the east side, 10am… busy morning but worth it. how’s the backside of this mountain. i bet you don’t know where this is?
got dinner? yes, as fresh as it gets… the top one is an “uhu” or parrot fish. that’s going to be stuffed with goodies and put on the barbecue. i speared this uhu and it ran into a hole and died. i tried to look for it but a huge ass morey eel almost bit my ear so i was out of there. then my friend shane found the uhu floating later. thanks shane.. the bottom one is called “lai” or leather back. it’s pronounced “lye”. this one is going on the frying pan. and i ain’t lying…. got it?? haha. i just changed the setup on my gun so i was missing fish all day. i usually don’t spear lai but i wanted to practice on something i can eat. this was a pretty big one so i lined him up point blank in the head, he was about 6 inches off the tip of my spear. i fired and got the best shot ever. you can’t even see where my spear went in. can you? try to look closely at the tail. i got him at the tip of his tail. that’s how accurate my gun is. that ain’t no lai. right now, my picasso gun sucks and it’s all my fault. when i first got it stock, i could shoot a fish in the head with my eyes closed. but after is modified it, i can’t shoot an elephant with it. not even close. so for right now, the fish are lucky. but when my new gun gets to hawaii, sayonara. i also found a big tako doing a tako dance on the side of me when i was on the bottom stalking a fish. he swam up to me and stood on his 8 legs. the fish ended up running away so i stuck my spear under the tako’s legs, tickled him, and brought him up. perfect for tako poke. oh, picked up this nice shell too. forgot to take a photo of it. i’ll show it to you later. it’s a keeper.. anyway, it was a long day and i still have a lot of water in my head…. goodnight….
and before i sleep, i’m eating bubbies green tea ice cream. the best in the world. and i ain’t lai-ing… haha… i better go sleep. oyasuminasai…
**by the way, the triple crown kicked off today at haleiwa. sunny garcia went off…. no lie.. CLICK HERE FOR HIGHLIGHTS….
