good evening. i was passing by diamond head this evening and couldn’t
believe how good the waves were. i seen some 5′ or atama han sets coming
in perfectly to lighthouse and cliffs. the wind was light offshore, the
weather was blue, and not too many people out. i’d have to say that
yesterday and today was as good as diamond head gets. i ended up surfing
bowls early this morning. i was too lazy to walk down the mountain and
paddle all the way out. haha. the waves at bowls were super good out
there too. perfect waves with perfect winds. after my happy surf
session, i rode the harley around town and feeling pretty free. i’ve
been ending my days doing a run around town going 100mph on the side
roads. dangerous, but freaking love the rush.
have a tough decision tomorrow morning. either go surf perfect waves on
the south shore, or dive perfect conditions on the east shore. my body
wants both but only can do one. what ever i do, i’ll be happy.
i was texting my 2 high school friends today wishing them a happy
mothers day. 2 wonder girls that have been by my side from 7th grade.
they are both single mothers raising 2 beautiful kids each. they both
have done the best jobs they could ever do in raising their kids and
loving them 100% unconditionally. the support they have for their kids
is inspiring to me. i’m very proud of them for their strength throughout
all the tough years. to Holli and Candace, you girls are my life! hope
to see you soon! and if bryson, braxon, haley or kalen is reading this,
go give your mom a big hug for me.
and to all you other mothers out there, i hope you all had a wonderful
day! keep loving, keep supporting, and keep smiling!
