the right chicks name is Pepper, the left chicks name is Salt.
meet Salt and Pepper!
make me some fresh eggs chicks!
today the waves were super fun. went surfing at bowls with Akudo-san.
Akudo-san has a cool shop in ebisu, tokyo called Standard California. a
super nice surfer with great taste in clothes and style. his shop is
awesome with super cool staff!
guess who was surfing out at bowls this morning? Johnny Boy Gomes. yeah,
if you don’t know JBG, he’s one of the heaviest locals in hawaiian
surfing history. won the Pipeline Masters one year, and people from all
over the world respect his power surfing. also one of the scariest guys
if you don’t know him, but if you do know him, the coolest guy in the
world. i had a great time talking and surfing with him for 2 hours in
the lineup. talked about surfing shikoku, talked about the 80’s, and
talked about his comeback. he was ripping today and was looking pretty
lean. i’m super stoked to see him today in the water.
going to sleep. had a long day today and tomorrow will be another long
day in the ocean. i’m having a super fun time and the more i think about
japan/bali/mentawai next week, i’m getting more and more excited. but
still have lots of things to do and lots of waves to ride before that.
see you in the water.
