the other day we dove was a special rare day. for the past year, it seems like we haven’t had too many variable, or no wind days. these are the best surfing and diving days and sometimes it’s hard to choose what do to. but this time since it’s been a long time, i chose diving. just going down into the deep blue, then coming back up to the green mountains, what more could you ask for? from nature to nature with nobody around. for surfing, you have to deal with all the aggressive people in the water, diving, it’s just you and the ocean. that’s why i think free diving is such a good balance. it keeps my mind and soul calm. i can’t wait to go again!
for all of you who don’t know, the water in fukushima is contaminated with radiation so surfers are not allowed to go into the water. surfers have to drive a few hours up or down the coast to get in a surf session and we have no clue on how long this will continue. so everyday i jump into the ocean, i always appreciate what we have here in hawaii. and when somebody from fukushima comes to hawaii to surf, i do my best to make it the greatest surf experience for them. this day, Kurosawa-san from Iwaki City came to hawaii for the first time to surf.
i took him to bowls and we scored. the waves were so good, clean, and so long! a couple of my local surfer friends were out that day and gave Kurosawa-san so many good sets. i was so happy to see him catch so many good waves and smiling all day.
Kurosawa-san,
I had a great time surfing with you.
Hope you got to refresh yourself in Hawaii.
Keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
Aloha.
last, i didn’t know they made silicone for butts? or does she have 2 watermelons in her pants? haha.
