24 Hour Road Trip…

253


good morning. i got home late last night from a wonderful 24 hour trip to chiba. naoka and i got there around midnight and jasmine and hide-san were waiting for us with beer, wine, and jacksan. slept at 2:30am, got up at 6:30am, and surfed, played, and surfed…. wanted to thank jasmine and hide-san for always being so kind…

we picked up hayato, and met up with yuko and yoko. surfed torami 2x. the waves were going off!!! head high and super long rights. off shore winds, sunny skies, and even some barrels….. i took some photos and wait till you see them. sick!!!

then we all went to sea song restaurant to eat a pretty dam good lunch. i had the avocado/chicken on rice with baked scallop. it was so good. and even better because i was eating with wonderful people. yuko shimijiri, yoko furuichi, hayato maki, and naoka…. thanks guys for a wonderful time in chiba… and driving back to shonan, we stopped by a hormone yakiniku place. oh my gosh. it was so good…. what a great life!!!

and wanted to thank hayato’s family for the wonderful breakfast. no, we didn’t eat these chickens, we ate their eggs over hot rice, with natto and yamari shirasu on the side. what a great way to start off the day…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide