good morning. i’m so happy to come home to blue skies and a new south swell. the waves are pumping today!!! i seen some solid 4′ sets at bowls and ala moana park. off shore winds and sunny!!! gosh, am i a lucky guy or what? i wanted to relax but with waves 10 minutes away from my house, i’m going surfing!!! have a nice day and enjoy life….
i pulled up to ala moana park yesterday around 6:46pm to check the waves. i seen some nice ones out at big rights so i paddled out as the sun was setting. there were 6 guys out. then 5, then 3, then only one other surfer in the whole ocean as it was getting dark. i caught a wave in the pitch dark in and had a great welcome home session. anyway, i just seen a 5′ set. i’m out of here…
by the way, did you hear about the surfer who tried to paddle over 5lbs of marijuana from mexico to the u.s? yup, he got busted….
and last, i saw this car parked outside of a korean restaurant in hawaii. freakin lazy ass….
