good evening. wow, what an awesome day for surf in hawaii. i surfed my first round at queen’s and it was pretty dam good. there weren’t too many surfers out and there were so many waves!! the new south swell started showing and the waves got bigger throughout the day. i seen local motion maki-san get so many 100 meter rides at queen’s. then my second round, i thought i’d wait till the evening session so it’s not that crowded at big rights. i paddled out around 6pm and it was 4′ and fun. then right before dark, the big sets started coming. it was so big that big rights and concessions were closing out the channel. i was stoked to see the sets coming in. i paddled into a 6′ double up set, the wind blew water in my eyes, i should have pulled back, but instead, i went for it. i ended up free falling head first from the top of the wave with my board. i got slammed, came up, and my board was in 2 pieces. as i was swimming in, this guy told me that that wipeout was the heaviest thing he’s ever seen on the south shore. i think so too…. haha… it got pounded but it felt kind of good because it woke me up. just as i was so comfortable out at big rights, mother nature took me over and slapped my ass. i needed that!!
this was one of my magic 6’0 matchi shaped thruster. that sucks!!!
then as i was changing into my warm clothes, the fireworks show started. then i went from sad to happy in one bang!!! it’s amazing how the sound and lights from fireworks can make people happy. gosh, i can’t wait till tomorrow because the waves are supposed to be bigger!!! go-naminori!!!
