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good morning. 5:30am tuesday morning. another south swell today and on thursday. i seen some solid 3′ sets at bowls and the park with epic conditions. no wind making the waves perfect. there are only 4 guys out not at bowls. gosh, i wish i got up earlier…. i have a photo shoot from now so i’m out of here. have a nice day!!!

i was driving through a back road yesterday in town and seen something pretty amazing. yup, a huge mango tree loaded with lots of red ripe mangos. i actually stopped my car to take a better look….

look closely. i’ve been living in hawaii my whole life and haven’t seen a mango tree with this many ripe mangos. 20 years ago, i’d probably just take a few without asking. 10 years ago, i’d probably knock in the guys door and ask him for some. today, i’ll just go to the supermarket and buy some. i guess i’m getting more mature with age. haha…. or maybe tomorrow i will dress up as a young kid and steal some? haha… i would tell you where it is but i know that somebody will go there and steal some at night. gosh, my mouth was watering just looking at it…..

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KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide