Nuuanu Jurrassic Park….

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good evening. another day of so so waves. we say in japanese “ma ma’. not too good, or not too bad. and not good enough for me to drive out to the north shore. waves in town looked like it came up a little this evening. should have some 2 footers tomorrow. north shore is coming down with the next swell sunday into monday. tomorrow is the BIG UH football game. our guys are in nevada playing them on their home turf. someplace uh has never won before. it’s going to be a good game and i’m watching it for sure. 6pm start on ESPN…..

when the jungle gets growing, my brother and i head up to my mom’s nuuanu house. there’s a huge yard along the stream and it rains there everyday so that means; jurrasic park. haven’t been there for a while so things have gotten out of control. the trees needed to be cut down, and so did the grass and weeds….

i hate doing yard work but somebody has to do it. this was the beginning and i didn’t want to show you what i looked after. i was too dirty and stink…

after 2 truckloads of trees and bushes, it looked much better. you can acutally see the pond and stream now. i love this house. i was actually born here. right in that pond. nah, just joking. but my grandpa bought this land back in the 1940’s, worked really hard and built his dream house. it’s old school japanese style with shoji doors and everything. got a huge living room overlooking the yard and nuuanu stream. it’s super peacefull and quiet. can hear the birds churping and the cool winds blowing the trees. i want to live here when i get older. i just don’t want to clean the yard….

went up the mountain to check out the pigs this evening and go for a swim in the pool. brandon grabbed a little pig and it was screaming so loud. still waiting for them to get a little bigger before it’s on the barbecue. maybe super bowl sunday??

and another killer sunset on the way home. lucky we live hawaii….
**and shit, i ran into “DaSpot” to get a smoothie after doing yard work today. not even 30 seconds later, a freaking cop pulled up and gave me a ticket. i was pissed but it was my fault. something was happening around McCully today because there were cops everywhere giving tickets for every little thing. that’s cool. $35 isn’t too bad. better than $150 in japan….

this is page 110-111 of cloud 9 in surfing world. that guy getting barreled is jason shibata. i’ve know jason since he was a little kid. it was cool watching him surf better and better and at the same time, being such a cool person. of all the surfers from hawaii that went to surf the contest, jason was the most popular with the filipino locals. everybody likes this guy…. and on the left side, the real deal chicken fights. go there and it will blow your mind….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide