photo by shinsuke matsukawa.
what a long day it was for me. woke up at 2am, waxed up 2 boards,
played around with my cameras, checked the waves, did some internet,
emails, exercised at 4am, ate breakfast, rented a scooter, headed for a
massage, then lunch with my friends, then the most dangerous 1.5 hour
scooter ride back to my hotel, then trying to get internet service on my
iphone, then jumped into the pool, and now lying down on my comfortable
bed thinking to myself “hey, this is supposed to be my vacation????”
shucks, i’m never on vacation.
i been through 2 time zones, my body is still on hawaii time, my mind is
trying to get on bali time. just can’t adjust this time. at 2am, i
feel like surfing! i feel like moving! i feel like doing something but
it’s pitch dark outside and the only thing to do is to drive to kuta and
party like a rockstar. that’s not happening.
had the best 1.5 hour massage at cozy. i’m a steady customer for the
past 15 years. love it. $12, can’t go wrong. i rented a scooter for
$5/day and went on a wild ride today. i swear that indonesia is the
craziest country to ride a scooter. oh wait, vietnam was worst. but
i’m getting good at dodging big trucks, stray dogs, kids, and big pot
holes in the street. i’m always on the defense driving 80khm down small
roads on the side of thousands of other cars, trucks, buses, and
scooters. it’s like a nintendo game but if you crash, you die. i had 2
close calls today and actually had to skid into a pile of rocks because
i got cut off. super dangerous, but riding scooter is the best way to
get around. the traffic is just too crazy for cars nowadays.
going to try to take a 30 min power nap and see how i do tonight. it’s
only 4:30 but feels like it’s past my bedtime as my eyes are closing.
had fun meeting matsu, nicola, alyssa, and nishina-san. it’s weird how
everybody is connected in a way. small surfing world but i’m glad to
know such good people.
tomorrow, i’m going to stay in my room and enjoy it. i was gone for 6
hours today and thought to myself, “what are you doing? you should be
staying in your palace!” yes, i agree.
see you at 2am. good night.
