Surf's UP…

217


good evening. another long day that started early in the morning at ala moana park. the waves were 2-4′ and pretty fun….

seth, kalana, and josh up and early for today’s photo session….

when you see the moniz van pull up to a spot near you, run away. haha.. the groms take over everywhere they go. and gosh, i give my sister credit for supporting the kids every single day…

isaiah moniz isn’t my little nephew anymore. he’s become a fine young man. girls, you better run away…..

there is a surf spot on the south shore which name i will keep secret. from the beach, the waves look really fun and clean. looks like you can go out there and do anything on a wave you want. BUT, it’s just not that. it’s the hardest and most frustrating wave in hawaii. BUT, after you see the photos, you’ll be glad you paddled out. like every season for the past 20 years, i felt like a beginner today. i just can’t figure that spot out. but what made me happy was sitting at the peak with 3 of my nephews talking story and trading waves. that’s like a dream come true for any uncle. and to see them ripping made me proud. i can’t wait to go on an indo boat trip with them someday. anyway, wanted to thank kondo-san for shooting all of us. can’t wait to see the photos….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide