salemat pagi! after our first nightmare day, we finally got here to the
mentawai islands and guess what? the waves are good! surfed lances
lefts, bintangs, ht’s, and macaroni’s. it’s day 5 of 11 days and so
many good waves have been ridden, and so many experiences happened.
here is a sneak peak of some photos i took so far. yeah, i shot over
2000 photos. like usual, it’s been really busy here for me. surfing,
shooting, diving, and talking. not too much time for naps and so far,
my body feels like going and going! no stop!
here are some captions for these photos.
photo 1: Ayaka Suzuki. this was our first session at Lances Rights.
i’d call this wave 6-8′ hawaiian scale. big wave for such a young 16
year old girl. this girl charges!
photo 2: it’s these 4 young girls first time to mentawai, and first
boat trip ever. the first night, their faces didn’t look like this. it
took a day and a jump in the ocean to overcome their sea sickness. from
now on, it’s all fun!
photo 3: toda-san was the first japanese stand up paddler ever to come
to the mentawai’s. he looks pretty comfortable out on this giant set!
photo 4: i remember pushing this young girl into waves at kewalo’s on
her first trip to hawaii. Reika Noro surely grew up into a fine young
surfer. at 17 years old, her career has just started. i bet anybody
this girl will be japan’s champion in the next few years. watch out.
photo 5: we caught 2 big fish by the fishing pole, and about 10 or so
on our speargun. sashimi everynight? yes, and poke too!
photo 6: this is the favorite part of my day. watching the sunset,
eating sashimi, sipping on a bintang, and talking to the coolest people
in the world. yes, we come from all ages and all walks of life, but we
are all here for the same reason. to surf, relax, and have fun!
photo 7: scored some clean water at bintangs for some underwater
fisheye. super cool world which i love!
anyway, sitting here at macaroni’s resort buying wifi. after i send
this blog, i’m back to the boat and pulling into one of the most perfect
left barrels in the world. great life! be back at next wifi spot.
