Mentawai Diary 3

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9 of the 11 days we were out in the ocean it was either raining, storming, thunder, cloudy, lightning, or just super dark. for me as a photographer, it was one of my hardest challenges to get good photos. my camera getting rained on, everything foggy, wet, and just yucky. for some photos, i had to really max out my camera settings to take some decent photos. it was hard and frustrating because the surfing and waves were good, just the weather sucked. imagine being stuck on a boat with 18 people nowhere to go? day in and day out. i really got to know my bed a lot. haha.
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the fishing was awesome, probably the best fishing ever for me in the mentawai. the water was dirty most everywhere from the rain so we had to catch our fish the old fashioned way. sashimi and poke almost every night.
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on every trip, somebody always gets hurt. this time, it was ayaka suzuki. at 16 years old, i haven’t met another girl her age that is so strong. when toda-san squeezed the lime on her cuts everyday, she took it like a woman. i have lots more respect for ayaka now.
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this is macaroni’s. this are the conditions the mentawai’s have to offer. all you need is one, and you’ll have a great day.
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asako mizuno was the birthday girl. turned 19 years old on a boat in the middle of the indian ocean. i bet she won’t forget this one.
anyway, gotta start uploading photos to my computer and sorting things out. this is the part of my job i hate the most. i love looking at them, but hate organizing them. everybody got some great photos in the short amount of time we had shooting. stay tuned!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide