good morning. 8am and i finally got up. what a night last night…. oh my gosh. the football game was awesome. we went to this bar near ala moana to watch it on the big screen tv. it was packed and the game was super stressing to watch. we were losing with only 15 seconds left. then we kicked a 45 yard field goal to win the game. and we won the game with our backup quarterback. the bar went crazy. i bet the whole island of hawaii went crazy. everybody was so happy and the bar we went to announced to us that the next round was on the house. i’ve never been to a bar like that before…..
then everything was a blur for the rest of the night. we went to a couple of places to celebrate and everybody was talking about the game. it was a good vibe. no fights. if we lost, i would have come straight home after because there would be a lot of drunk pissed off fans all over…. as for the waves, the north shore looks flat. maybe 2′ if your lucky. town has some 2 footers too. bowls looks pretty fun…. i got to get in the water to wash away my headache…
gosh how fast time flies. this was the ending of last winter and it seemed like yesterday. here is numajiri, yasan, tokura-san, matchi, and jacksan getting ready to head to the airport back to japan….
i’m still waiting for backdoor. this was early november last winter. i’d say this wave was 8′? i remember taking off and looking down the line. i pulled into the barrel and as i was coming out, the lip landed on my head. i ate shit and hit the reef. something you don’t want to do out there. anyway, it’s late november now and i didn’t even surf there yet. too much sand on the beach and no big swells like this. can’t wait to get barreled this year. i’m getting itchi… see you up there…
**i don’t know why but my text is just wrapping around. why? was it always doing it? somebody help!! naoka help!!!
