Surf Doctors/Spear Head

317

photo
want to meet 2 cool doctor surfers? meet the Sato brothers. they come to hawaii every year and we try to surf the biggest spot on the island. the first time older brother Sato-san came to hawaii 4 years ago, i took him out to 6-8′ haleiwa. i just wanted to take him out there for the experience and didn’t expect him to catch a wave. he ended up catching 2 waves and after he came in, i remember telling him that you are ready for anything now. last year we surfed maxing out bowls, today we surfed perfect chest high bowls and it was just too easy for him. i was super happy surfing with these brothers today. always laughing and always having a good time. thank you Sato brothers for a super fun day!
Screen shot 2012-06-21 at 1.19.02 AM
i was watching the news and seen a kid getting flown in a helicopter to a hospital. they put him on the stretcher and i saw a spear shaft sticking out of his head. OMG!
Screen shot 2012-06-21 at 1.17.35 AM
this poor 16 year old kid accidentally got shot in his head with a spear gun. the shaft missed his eye and went all the way through his head. it took 3 hours of surgery to take the shaft out and the kid is perfectly fine. meet the luckiest kid on earth.
anyway, i just came back from mentawai and i think i’m surfing more now then i did on the trip. today we surfed for 4.5 hours and i wanted more. i’m totally sunburned, tired, and need a vacation. but i’ll probably wake up tomorrow wanting to surf, surf, and surf! summer is here!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide