LEARNING IN HAWAII….

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good evening. we dawn patrolled bowls. 4′ and hardly anybody out. score!! then off to the side to shoot some photos. gosh, what a busy morning….

seth caught too many waves at bowls so he was tired. so josh and shun paddled out and caught a few while seth was sleeping on the wall….

josh was complaining and saying the waves sucked. tony and i kind of forced him to surf. and after he checks this photo out, he will be glad he did. i don’t know any other 12 year old kid that surfs with this much power. take a look at the sprays… almost as much as mine… haha…

shun is really learning a lot this time in hawaii.
-he’s learning how to eat meat every night at the moniz house.
-he’s learning how to make friends that don’t speak one word of japanese.
-he’s learning english.
-he’s learning how to catch waves at kewalo’s.
-he’s learning how it feels like to get dropped in on every wave at bowls.
-and most importantly, he’s learning how to draw bigger lines in his surfing. that’s one thing you only can learn in hawaii….

the waves were going off today and will be for the rest of the week. GO-NAMINORI!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide