4 Fin/Chinese/Tantalas/3rd Chance

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good evening. what a beautiful day it was. started off rainy and cloudy but all of a sudden, the sun came out and it turned into one of the hottest days of the year. blue sky, hot sun, and cool trade winds. lucky for the people living in hawaii.
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i’ve been riding this 4 fin board recently. super fast down the line and pretty solid. stoked to have a lot of magic boards.
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i surfed with Yayoi-san this morning. i was so happy to see her catch so many long waves. the water was clean, the waves were long, and the waves were perfect. then we ate at my favorite chinese restaurant in chinatown. it’s called “Idonotknow.” haha.
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then we drove up to tantalus and it couldn’t have been a nicer day. a perfect end to a perfect day.
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but when i tried to start my car, it didn’t start!!! OMG! one week ago it did the same thing. for some reason, it won’t start. once i called the tow truck and when he pulled up, it started. then last week, i waited 1 hour and it started up. then today, i knew if we just waited a little, i would start up. and guess what? 20 min later, it started. my brother is the best mechanic on the island but doesn’t know what the heck is going on. he said “just get rid of it.” shock! anyway, wanted to say sorry to Yayoi-san for making her wait in the hot sun. but i have to say that i wouldn’t have wanted to wait anywhere else. the view was just amazing today. and want to thank reid and yuko-chan for coming up to help us. right as they pulled up, my car started. i knew it was going to happen. weird yeah? anyway, the last time it did this, i told myself that i’m getting a new car. i was too busy. then after i drove home today, i told myself that i’m getting a new car. i just looked online how much a new car cost. OMG! i changed my mind. i decided to buy a bicycle. as for my car, i’m not giving up on it. i got at least 10 chances in my life, so i’m giving my car 5.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide