good saturday morning. 6:45 am and the waves dropped and looks kind of morning sickness. chest high at bowls with 18 guys out, rockpiles with 7 guys, and a bunch spread out at the park. it’s going to be a rest day for me. a small south swell expected on sunday, and another big one on wednesday/thursday. maybe 6′ again? i hope so. i hope i can get a few more barrels before i leave to okinawa and get more. haha.. well, gotta start packing for japan because i’m going to be too busy to do anything this week. got 1 board, 1 speargun, my camera, and a lot if excitement in my suitcase. can’t wait!! my yearly typhoon season is a few days away!!!
i don’t feel bad at all waking kids up early in the morning to go surf good waves. seth and shun didn’t look too happy driving to the beach the other morning but as soon as they hit the water, it was a different story…
shun was probably thinking “hurry up seth, you take too long. if this was japan, we’d be out there already. japan nami nai yo”….
a nice man feeding the birds.
and a nice wave right behind him…
**and last, check out captain me driving a multimillion dollar yacht in the mentawai’s. we were heading for a blue water spot to catch dinner for tokura-san’s birthday. we did it!!!
